At The Falcon Table
By David J. Motak

For the Love of Pączki

The recent 90th anniversary of Poland’s independence in 1918 was a significant milestone both in Polish history, as well as the history of the Polish Falcons. After many years of struggle and sacrifice, the aspirations of countless Polish patriots in Europe and in America were finally realized. Rising from the ashes of the First World War, the new Polish state faced seemingly insurmountable obstacles. The freshly formed Polish government was still in disarray and the economy in shambles.

Surrounded by enemies, resurrected Poland was forced to establish - and then defend - its new borders almost instantaneously. The Poles faced military incursions by Germans, Czechs, Ukrainians, Lithuanians and, finally, the Communist Bolsheviks, who were intent on smashing the young Polish state and transporting their atheist ideology into Western Europe.

Composed of a diverse grouping of officers and troops from the old Russian, German and Austrian armed forces, the ill-equipped Polish army was still in the process of formation. One of the few cohesive elements in the new Polish military force was General Haller’s “Blue Army,” which included many Polish Falcons who had volunteered for service in the former Western Front. These were well-trained and well-equipped, battle-hardened veterans. Although no foreign troops were provided by Poland’s Western Allies, the Polish general staff did receive assistance in its organizing efforts from a cadre of French military
experts and advisors.

The Bolshevik onslaught was fierce. In the occupied areas, the Russian troops massacred anyone of aristocratic lineage, business owners, Polish patriots, nuns and priests. But, almost incredibly, the Poles were soon able to push the “Reds” far back into the Russian interior, and, for the first time since 1667, occupied the historic city of Kiev. Quite understandably, Poles were ecstatic. During the victory parade in Warsaw, the Polish commander-in-chief, Marshal Pilsudski, appeared in an open-air touring car, which jubilant students lifted and carried on their shoulders through the streets of the capital.

These celebrations proved to be premature, however, as the Bolsheviks soon renewed their attack. This resulted in the brilliant defense of the Polish capital, often cited in Polish history as the “Miracle on the Vistula” after which the Bolsheviks were pushed back and finally defeated in the fall of 1920.

Despite these distractions, life in Warsaw continued much as usual. Warsaw at the time was considered the “Paris of the East,” a beautiful city with wide boulevards, promenades and palaces. The Polish capital boosted numerous high-quality shops, restaurants and cafes, and the nightlife of the new Polish capital was on par with most other major European capitals. Clearly, this was a euphoric time for Poland.

Enjoying Warsaw during this period was a one of the French military advisors assigned to the Polish general staff, a young French officer and future president of France, Charles de Gaulle. Warsaw residents tell many stories about de Gaulle’s stay in their city. Apparently, when he was not busy with troop movements and battle tactics, he became infatuated with a young Polish beauty, which led to a passionate love affair. The young Frenchman apparently also fell in love with another one of Warsaw’s attractions; it is said that he developed a passion for the famous pączki from Blikle’s Confectionary Shop on Nowy Świat Street, a Warsaw landmark for nearly 140 years. One can envision the young French Lieutenant pouring over battle plans in defense of Warsaw while munching on a box of these delectable specialty doughnuts. Years later, as the story goes, after he became President of France, de Gaulle remembered his great Warsaw love: he arranged to have Blikle’s pączki flown to him in Paris on a regular basis.

This story is probably just one of Warsaw’s numerous “urban legends.” As Polish women are some of the most attractive in the world, it is hard to imagine any man – particularly a romantic young Frenchman – passing over a Polish beauty in favor of a doughnut. But, then again, these are Blikle’s pączki that we are speaking off; and even regular Polish pączki can create a rather
passionate response.

I have eaten Blikle’s pączki every time I am in Warsaw and I must say that perhaps Charles de Gaulle had a point. Unlike the large, heavier doughnuts found in many Polish and Polish-American bakeries and delicatessens Blikle’s pączki are very much in a class all their own. Like their larger, swollen cousins, they are very equally as rich and tasty. The Blikle versions are filled with wild rose preserves, are somewhat petit and surprisingly light and airy. They are not piled in large masses as one might see in other Polish confectionary shops, but are treated with special care, presented on fluted foiled papers, (much like our cup cake papers, but sturdier.) Then there is the topping. Blikle’s pączki are covered with an exquisite glaze of translucent white icing crested with candied orange peel. They are as spectacular on the outside as they are delicious on the inside.

Pączki (pronounced “ponch-key”) originated as a specialty dessert as Polish housewives would use-up various rich ingredients such as oil, sugar and flour before the beginning of Lent and the accompanying fast. Over time, they became a featured attraction at pre-Lenten “zapusty” or festive carnival gatherings both in Poland as well as in Polish émigré communities throughout the world. They have become a special feature in Polish specialty shops, church festivals and in Polish homes on “Tłusty Wtorek” (Fat Tuesday) the day before Ash Wednesday and the official beginning of Lent.

The young Charles de Gaulle was certainly not alone in his “pączki passion,” as many people continue to share his obsession for these wonderful confections. There are “non Polish” bakeries in many communities throughout the United States that annually present this Polish specialty. I have a friend - who by the way is not of Polish extraction -who is virtually addicted to pączki. Each year, without fail, I receive either an email or a phone message telling me simply that “They’re here!” (Meaning that the Party Cake Bakery in his neighborhood is now cranking-out their yearly batch of their delectable, deep-fried Polish doughnuts.) I believe that my friend imagines that, simply because I’m Polish, I am obligated to drop everything and rush over to Brookline Boulevard for my yearly fix. After all, he himself buys them by the dozen.
There are Pączki Parties, Pączki Festivals, Pączki Balls with Pączki Kings and Pączki Queens, and, I’m sure, perhaps a Pączki Parade or two. There are even Pączki Bobbleheads. And if there is no bakery in your neighborhood that will be offering these specialty Polish doughnuts in the days before Lent, they are available via mail order on the Internet. (You can order your pączki at the Polana Foods website at www.polana.com)

Established in 1869 as a family business, Blikle’s survived two world wars, the almost total destruction of Warsaw and over 50 years of Communism. Remarkably, this Warsaw landmark is still in Blikle family hands, owned and managed by the fifth generation of the Blikle family. Visit their web site (in Polish) at www.blikle.pl .

To help you create your own “pączki tradition”, here is a recipe for a version popular in Warsaw. We are also providing a recipe for a variation on the famous Blikle’s pączki glaze and candied orange peel. So, who knows, your pączki might even attract a French president or two!
Smacznego!

Warsaw Pączki
12 egg yolks
1 teaspoon salt
2 packages active dry yeast
¼ cup warm water
1/3 cup butter or margarine (room temperature)
½ cup sugar
4 ½ cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons rum or brandy
1 cup whipping cream, scalded
1 ½ cups very thick fruit preserves or jam
(such as raspberry)
Fat or vegetable oil for deep frying (heated to 365˚ F)

1. Beat egg yolks with salt until thick and forms peaks.
2. Soften yeast in warm water in a large bowl.
3. Cream butter; add sugar gradually, creaming until fluffy. Beat into softened yeast.
4. Stir one quarter of the flour into the yeast mixture. Add the rum and half the cream. Beat in another quarter of the flour. Stir in remaining cream. Beat in half of the remaining flour, then beat in the egg yolks. Beat 2 minutes (if using an electric mixer; longer if by hand.) Gradually add the remaining flour until the dough blisters.
5. Cover the bowl with a towel or plastic wrap. Set in a warm place to rise. When doubled in bulk, punch
down. Cover and let rise again until doubled. Punch down again.
6. Roll dough on a floured surface to a thickness of ¾ inches. Cut out 3 inch round using glass or round cutter.
7. To fill doughnuts, place 1 teaspoonful of preserves in the center half of the rounds. Brush edges with water. To with a second round and seal edges.

8. Cover doughnuts on floured surface. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 20 minutes.
9. Fry doughnuts in heated oil until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels. When cooled, sprinkle with powdered sugar or top with Specialty Icing (recipe follows)

Specialty Icing
1 cup rough chopped walnuts
½ cup diced dried apples
2½ cup powdered sugar
Candied orange peel
2 tablespoons softened butter
6 tablespoons water

1. Mix powdered sugar and softened butter and gradually add the water until the mixture is smooth and silky (but not runny).
2. Add chopped walnuts and diced dried apples. Mix then let sit for one hour.
3. Spoon mixture onto individual pączki.
4. Sprinkle with candied orange peel.

Candied Orange Peel
1 large navel orange
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup water

1. Cut the orange area of the peel with a vegetable peeler, from the stem end to the navel end, creating ½ inch wide strips. Dice strips to form cubes.
2. Bring a heavy small saucepan of water to a boil. Add the peel cubes and cook for 1 minute. Drain and then rinse the peels under cold water. Repeat cooking the peels in the saucepan with fresh boiling water and rinsing under cold water.
3. Stir the sugar and 1/2 cup of fresh water in a heavy small saucepan over medium-high heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil. Add the orange peels and simmer over medium-low heat until tender, about 15 minutes.
4. Removed cubes from liquid with a strainer and drain off liquid. Dry slightly and add to the Specialty Icing.
(Note: A few tablespoons of rum or Polish vodka can be added to the water prior to boiling per taste. Recipe can be increased proportionally as needed.